Chemical Peels – Overview
 

What is a chemical peel?

A chemical peel, also called a skin peel or exfoliation, is using an acid solution to damage the outer layers of the skin. This exposes the underlying newer skin cells.

There are several acidic compounds used for peels. The most common acids are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), for example, glycolic acid and a newer less irritating acid called mandelic acid, and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) of which the most common example is salicylic acid.

Mandelic acid is a newer AHA, that is rapidly gaining in popularity. Mandelic acid is not so irritating as glycolic acid, so it can be used more frequently, it is efective for every skin type. Check out more information about mandelic acid.

Chemical peels are usually divided into light, medium and deep. Most home and spa peels are light peels. Medium and deep peels should be done by a dermatologist.

What is the benefit of a chemical peel?

Chemical peels can

• Reduce wrinkles
• Even out skin tone
• Smooth rough skin
• Fade dark spots (hyperpigmentation) including sun spots and melasma
• Increase formation of new skin
• Reduce acne
• Make skin look smoother and healthier

 
There are now many products available that you can use a home.

How does a chemical peel work?

All the chemical peels are acidic. The acid in the peel eats away at the top layer of the skin (exfoliation) and loosening dead cells. New skin is exposed which looks healthier and smoother. Additionally, skin is stimulated to increase cell division and make new skin.

How often does a chemical peel have to be done?

There are two types of products sold. One type of product is made to be used every day; the other type is for use once every one or two weeks.

Products used once a day

These products are designed to gently remove skin each day. Many people find these the easiest, since they can be incorporated into the daily skin care regime. Since these products are used every day, they have low enough concentrations of the acids, to stop the skin getting irritated. Some are sold as daily peels or exfoliants, while others are part of a cleansing regime. Salicylic acid has often used in the cleansers since it is less irritating than lactic and glycolic acids. Now a few products are available that contain mandelic acid, which is rapidly gaining in popularity..

There a whole range of products out there, with more appearing frequently.

Two products, that are worth checking out, with mandelic acid are M2 Skin Refinish and NuCelle Mandelic Serum. M2 Skin Refinish, which was formerly known as MaMa lotion has become a bestseller.

Popular products that contain glycolic acid are NeoStrata Foaming Glycolic Wash (AHA 20), Glytone Step-Up Mild Gel Wash (Glytone Step Up system is popular with dermatologists) and Dermaquest Skin Therapy Glyco Gel Cleanser (15%).

Obagi is a very popular line of products. Obagi products for many years were only available by prescription. Though some Obagi products are still only available from a doctor or spa, there are now some are available without a prescription. These Obagi products are design for everyday use. Popular products include Obagi Nu-Derm Exfoderm and Obagi Nu-Derm Exfoderm Forte.

There are range of other products such as La Roche-Posay Biomedic Purifying Cleanser and M.D. Forte Skin Rejuvenation Lotion III.

Products used less frequently

If the solution used is stronger, up to prescription strength glycolic acid, lactic acid or salicylic acid, then there should be at least a week between peels. See more information about doing glycolic acid or salicylic acid peels. These products can be briefly more irritating, due to higher levels of acid. However, if they are used once a week in the evening, then the irritation occurs at home.

An example of a popular product for less frequent use is the DDF 7-Day Radiance Peel Kit. Another example is DERMAdoctor Physical Chemistry Facial Microdermabrasion + Multiacid Chemical Peel. This product has a multiacid facial peel with microdermabrasion. (Information about Microdermabrasion)

How long does it take to recover?

After a light peel most people will feel very slight stinging for a short while. It is very common to be red for several hours after a peel. For this reason, doing a peel in the evening works well; the redness usually goes away overnight. The first one or two times that a light chemical peel is used, the skin may be dry and flakey for a day or two. Some people find that they may get a pimple or two after the first treatment.

How many chemical peels need to be done?

Peels need to be repeated at regular intervals to see the best effect. The number required depends on the condition of the skin and the goals. Obviously a daily peel product should be uded daily. For a deeper peel, a common program is weekly for 5 to 10 weeks and then peels less frequently to maintain. Since peels slowly remove the surface and rejuvenate, your skin will slowly improve over the weeks.

Limit sun exposure

When using chemical peels or any kind, but particularly those that are used less frequently, it is wise to limit sun exposure to the treated area.

The bottom line

A chemical peel either a gentle every day regime, or a weekly peel is an easy effective way to give your skin an anti-aging boost.