Retinoids (retinol, retin-A etc.), continued
Retinoids vary in the amount of irritation they may cause
There seems to be a relationship between effectiveness and potential level of irritation. The more potent the retinoid, the greater the possibility of irritating the skin.
How to use retinoids and minimize skin irritation
It is important to start slowly and get your skin used to the retinoid.
We are all want to see the fastest results possible, and so are tempted use a product frequently. Too frequent initial use of Retin A (retinoic acid) and high concentrations of retinol will cause redness, possibly inflammation, soreness and flakey peeling skin. It is not attractive. If this happens, you have to back off and let the skin recover.
Like the tortoise, slow and steady wins the race.
One way, probably the best way, is to start is with a product that has a lower concentration of retinoic acid (Retin A) or retinol, applying every other day. If after a couple of weeks there is no skin irritation, then use more frequently. When you have used up the product get a stronger product. Work up to the strongest product that your skin is comfortable with. Several products that use this approach are listed below.
If your skin is very sensitive, some of the stronger retinoids may be too strong and cause significant redness and flaking, or it may take a long time to adapt.
The second way is to start out with a strong product, applying twice a week. When your skin is not irritated, then go to every other day. If after a couple of weeks, your skin is no longer irritated, you can try every day.
How to apply retinoids
Most of instructions indicate that you should wash your face, let dry completely (at least 30 minutes), then apply the product. These instructions were developed for those using retinoids for acne treatment.
There seems to be less irritation if you do not wash your face. If you do not wear makeup on your skin, then you can apply without washing your face.
Retinoids are best applied in the evening, so the skin is not exposed to bright sunlight. Retinoids are broken down by sunlight, so any retinoid on your skin will be degraded. So, it will be a waste of time and money to apply retinoids in the morning and then go outside. If convenient apply a while before going to bed, so the retinoid has had time to be taken up by the skin and is no longer on the surface of the skin.
Apply a very thin coating on your skin. Use just enough to cover the area to be treated. Wash your hands after applying.
All the instructions say do not use around the eyes. Of course nearly everybody does, since this is one of the areas that develops wrinkles first. If you do apply round the eyes be very very careful not to get any in your eyes.
You will probably look worse before you look better
Most people will find that the skin actually looks worse initially. There may be some redness and the skin may become dry and flakey. Also it is quite common to get the odd pimple. Keep with it. The skin will start to look better.
To get the full effect it can take a year
Like all the effective home treatments for aging skin, the effects of retinoids are gradual. Studies have suggested that the skin continues to improve for up to a year after starting retinoid treatment. It is a long term plan, months not days.
Wear sunscreen on treated areas
Retinoids make skin more sensitive to the sun. Therefore, when using retinoids make sure that the treated areas are protected from strong sun.
Suggested Products
The most commonly used prescription retinoid is Retin-A (tretinoin, retinoic acid). This is generally only available by prescription, but can be obtained here without a prescription for very reasonable prices. There are 3 strengths 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1% (ranging from about $30 for the lowest strength, to about $45 for 0.1%). Most people start with either 0.025% or 0.05% until the skin gets used to the used to the treatment.
For non-prescription products the highest retinoid concentration that is currently available is 1% retinol. As stated on the previous page retinol is less than 10 times as effective as Retin-A. One of the best formulations with added antioxidants and anti-inflammatories for 1% retinol is DERMAdoctor Poetry In Lotion Intensive Retinol 1.0, about $75 with free shipping. Another popular product with 1% retinol is Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 10x, about $70 with free shipping.
As described above, probably the best way is to start slowly. Here are two suggestions based on price, the first series of products only go up to 0.6% retinol the second to 0.9%. There is no reason not to mix and match for price and/or concentration. The first series are Afirm 1X with 0.15% retinol, about $35; then Afirm 2X
with 0.3% retinol, about $36; and then Afirm 3X
with 0.6% retinol, about $39. The second series are Green Cream Retinol - Level 3, with 0.3% retinol, about $36; then Green Cream Retinol - Level 6, with 0.6% retinol, about $43; and then Green Cream Retinol - Level 9, with 0.9% retinol, about $50.
The Green Cream Retinol - Level 9 is probably the best deal of all, 0.9% is not much below 1% retinol and it is cheaper than products with 1%. Note: Prices often change a little bit, both up and down, relatively frequently, so use the prices as guide and use the links to see current prices.
As described on the previous page retinyl palmitate is converted to retinol and then retinoic acid. This is very efficient, most products with retinyl palmitate will be marginally effective at best. For this reason no products containing retinyl palmitate are suggested.
Bottom Line
The retinoids, retin A, retinol etc., are one of the few set of compounds that have been shown in careful studies to improve skin and slow down the aging process. Your lines and wrinkles will be less obvious, your skin will be plumper and and sun spots and melasma will be less visible.
