Retinoids (retinol, retin-A etc.)
 

The retinoids are a major class of compounds that are generally agreed to reduce signs of aging, decrease wrinkles and photoaging, and rejuvenate skin.

Retinoids in most non-prescription skin creams and lotions are usually either retinol or retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate).

The most common prescription forms of retinoids prescribed for wrinkles and photodamage, as well as acne, are retinoic acid (retin-A, tretinoin), tazarotene, adapalene and isotretinoin. There are a number of other retinoids that are usually prescribed just for other conditions such as psoriasis, and treatment of some precancerous and cancerous lesions.

What effects do retinoids have?

Retinoids increase the turnover of cells in the skin and also increase the collagen content of the skin. This results in a plumping of the skin which makes wrinkles less obvious.

Retinoids also even skin pigmentation and improve skin tone. In many people, small pigment patches, that are called lentigines (singular – lentigo), especially those that are due to sun exposure, will lighten when treated with retinoids.

Retinoids have been shown to help firm skin while on a diet and losing a lot of weight. Plus, studies have shown that retinoid treatment can make stretch marks less obvious. Of course, since the retinoids were developed for acne, after a few weeks treatment most people find that blackheads are less visible, and acne is improved. If you have acne or are prone to breakouts, the first treatments with a retinoid may make your condition worse. This is only temporary.

The different retinoids vary in the concentration needed to be effective

The retinoids are not equal in their potency (strength).

The compound that is active in the skin is retinoic acid. All other retinoids are converted by the skin to retinoic acid.

This conversion is not 100% efficient, so more of other retinoids are needed for the same effect. In fact it has been demonstrated that more than10 times the amount of retinol is needed to get the equivalent amount of retinoic acid.

Retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate are converted to retinol and then to retinoic acid, so this is very inefficient.

Many products contain a retinoid but in the list of ingredients it so far down the list, so that it is probably at a concentration that is ineffective.

Read the list of ingredients carefully before you make your choice.

The strongest retinol concentration available is 1%.

 

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