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Skin Treatments
What are the range of options in skin treatments available to make your skin surface look better and younger?
Here is an overview of the major options.
In the list, the top group all can be done at home (though some such as chemical peels are also done at the dermatologists or spas). The second group are those only available at a dermatologist office (and some at spas).
- Chemical Peels
- Retinoids (retin-A, retinol etc.)
- Microdermabrasion
- Kinetin; Promoter of Cell Division
- Increasing Fibrillin Expression
- Antioxidants
- LED Light
- Radiofrequency (thermal)
- Ultrasound
- Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)
- Lasers
- Botulinum toxin (Botox)
- Fillers
Chemical Peels
Chemical peels remove the surface layer of the skin. This makes the skin look younger and smoother and will stimulate collagen synthesis within the skin. Peels also even skin tone by fading hyperpigmentation. Examples of peel chemicals include glycolic acid, salicylic acid and mandelic acid. Chemical peels done at the dermatologists tend to be more aggressive than those done at spas or at home.
There are now many chemical peel products available for home use. Home peels, since they are generally less aggressive, need to be done more frequently. To find out more about chemical peels, how they work and the various options see the overview of chemical peels.
Retinoids (retin-A, retinol etc.)
Retinoids are a class of compounds that are related to vitamin A, and include Retin-A, retinyl palmitate and retinol. They are available in both over the counter (OTC) and prescription formulations. The retinoids are universally agreed to reverse signs of aging, including fading hyperpigmentation, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as improving acne.
When choosing a product it is important to consider both the form of the retinoid, as different retinoids have different potencies and the concentration in the product. To find out more about how retinoids work, the different strengths, how to use them etc., see the webpage retinoids.
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion is the mechanical removal of a thin layer of the surface of the skin. It makes the skin look smoother, helps fade hyperpigmentation, stimulates the formation of new skin cells and the product of collagen. To find out more see the overview of microdermabrasion.
Dermabrasion is available at some dermatologists. This technique, which is becoming much less common, is much more aggressive and has a significant period of time for recovery.
Kinetin; Promoter of Cell Division
There are several compounds that are thought to promote cell division. The result of cell division is more cells and a slight plumping of the skin.
The most commonly used in skincare products is kinetin. The best known kinetin-containing products are Kinerase, due to heavy advertising and promotion. Check the ingredients of any Kinerase product that you may be interested in purchasing, since some of their products do not contain kinetin. To see some other products that contain kinetin, and to find out more see kinetin and skin aging.
Increasing Fibrillin Expression
Fibrillin-1 is a large protein that is found in between cells in the body including cells in the skin. Fibrillin is essential for elasticity. One reason for wrinkles is a loss in skin elasticity.
A product that has been available in the UK for a while and has recently been become available here is Protect & Perfect. This product increases the expression of fibrillin-1 and this increases skin elasticity. There is scientific evidence from a major British University that this product has an effect. It is also actually quite cheap. (It can be purchased here.) For more info see my blog post about Protect & Perfect, and take a look at the before and after pictures.
Antioxidants
There is evidence that as we age, particularly in the skin that we can become short of antioxidants. The theory is that an increased level of oxidative damage, due to lower levels of antioxidants, increases the rate of aging.
One way to increase the levels of antioxidants in the skin is to increase the amount in the whole body. This, of course, means consuming more antioxidant-rich foods and perhaps taking supplements.
A second way to increase antioxidants in the skin is to apply them to the outside. There are several things to consider. How much of an antioxidant makes it into the skin? Individual products each only contain a few of the possible antioxidants. Many antioxidants are not very stable and so some will be degraded before the skincare product is finished. Eating a wide variety of antioxidant-rich foods does not have these problems.
One type of product that has some science behind it, but is expensive, uses ferulic acid to stabilize vitamins C (thought to be the major antioxidant in the skin) and E. For more info see the webpage vitamins C and E with ferulic acid.
LED Light
Red LED (light-emitting diode) light has some effect on wrinkles. The basis of this finding is NASA funded research that showed that red LED light seems to promote healing. NASA is interested in healing since weightless in space slows down healing processes.
There is some evidence that regular use of LED therapy may reduce wrinkles, by increasing the proliferation (dividing to increase the number) of fibroblasts. It is fibroblasts that synthesize the collagen in skin.
The treatment is non-invasive, does not cause any pain or irritation and has no down time, but needs to be done on a regular basis.
A device that is available commercially is made by tända. The tända Professional Skincare System has two interchangeable filters, one allows blue light through and is used for acne, the other filter allows red light through and is for anti-aging.
For options for skin treatments that at available at the dermatologists see the next page.
