Vitamins C and E with Ferulic Acid, And Skin
 

Vitamins C and E are antioxidants

Both vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vitamin E function as antioxidants. Vitamin C is thought to be the major antioxidant in our skin. Studies have shown that in both the body and the skin, that combined vitamin C and vitamin E are more effective, than either is alone.

Vitamin C is important for collagen formation

Vitamin C is essential for the formation of mature collagen in the skin and the rest of the body. If the skin is deficient in vitamin C, there will be decreased collagen sysnthesis. Remember that one way that some of anti-aging compounds (such as the retinoids) have their effects is by increasing the amount of collagen in the skin.

As we age does less vitamin C get to the skin?

There is some evidence that as we age that less vitamin C gets to the skin, even when the body has a high level. This is part of the reason that many skin products contain vitamin C.

Vitamins C and E are thought to be photoprotective

Plants make a number of compounds including both vitamins C and E to protect them from sunlight. Studies of human skin have indicated that they are also protective for human skin.

Vitamin C that is either not acidified or not modified is not readily absorbed into the skin

Modified vitamin C

There are a number of different modifications of vitamin C available. Some of these are absorbed well by the skin, others are less readily taken up by the skin.

As with all skin products take a look at the ingredient list. Many products that do contain modified vitamin C, have them so low down the ingredient list that their antioxidant effect will be low. Common forms of modified vitamin C include tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, sodium erythorbate, ascorbyl stearate and ascorbyl palmitate (sometimes called vitamin C ester).

Acidified vitamin C

Vitamin C at neutral pH is not well absorbed into the skin. For vitamin C to be readily absorbed the skin product must be acid. Vitamin C is an acid, L-ascorbic acid (L-ascorbate). However, in most creams and lotions other ingredients will neutralize the vitamin C, so it is poorly absorbed.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E not a single substance but encompasses 4 tocopherols and 4 tocotrienols. The one most commonly used in supplements and skincare products in alpha tocopherol. All forms of vitamin E are fat soluble antioxidants and are important for protection of cell membranes, DNA and many enzymes. Vitamin E is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants in the body.

Ferulic acid

Ferulic acid is a found in all plants. There are high levels in many foods including rice, wheat, oats, apples and peanuts.

Ferulic acid is an antioxidant and may be effective against some types of cancer cells. It has been shown to have photoprotective effects. Which in plain English means it blocks UV.

Ferulic acid stabilizes vitamin C and vitamin E

The beneficial properties of ferulic acid and the fact that is an acid, led researchers to test whether it might be combined with, and stabilize, vitamins C and E in a skin product^a.

Vitamins C and E with Ferulic Acid

The combination of ferulic acid with vitamins C and E has been used in a number of studies¹. In initial studies a formulation of 15% L-ascorbic acid, 1% alpha tocopherol (vitamin E) in 0.5% ferulic acid was found to an effective well tolerated mix. (Skin is naturally acid.)

Vitamins C and E with ferulic acid has the following advantages

• Vitamin C readily enters the skin
• Protects against UV radiation (i.e. is a sunscreen)^a,b
• Mechanism of sun protection different from other sunscreens so can provide more protection when combined with another sunscreen.
• Dries on skin. Can apply creams, lotions or makeup over it
• May provide some protection against some UV light caused changes in the skin, which can lead to cancer
• Very stable. The ferulic acid stabilizes the vitamin C, which usually rapidly degrades in creams and lotions.

 
Until recently there was only one company selling for this combination, now there is one other. Since there is so little competition they are a bit pricey. The original source is Skinceuticals C E Ferulic acid. Who sells this product seems to change quite frequently for some inexplicable reason, try here. The list price is $138. The second product is Boske Dermaceuticals - Alchemist C Antioxidant Serum Normal to Dry Skin, list price $96. The similar sounding product Combination to Oily contains vitamin C but not vitamin E. The vitamin E is replaced by phloretin, which another antioxidant found in apple leaves.

Do not apply too much of the products, they are a bit sticky. Let them dry and then they make a good priming surface.

 
^aJ. Invest Dermatol. 125:826-32, 2005
^bJ. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 59:418-25, 2008